Disclaimer: we are now hovering generally above tree line and around 4500m. Anything that we say (or say we have done) may be disputed or retold (differently) entirely at our discretion once back at sea level. We take no responsibility for our spelling, moods, accuracy... or really anything whatsoever.
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Chhukhung. A steady walk above the tree line got us to Chhukhung by yesterday afternoon. Hot water is now something to pay for (a big bowl for washing face, hands, feet, other....). On the one hand makes one yearn for the luxury of namche, on the other we are now moving into serious remoteness....trekkers becoming fewer and generally it just feels further away.
That having been said, Panorama Lodge is charming, the loos are clean (so far on the entire trip it there have only been 2 disgusting holes ...which is quite an improvement from 4 yrs ago and probably a quantum leap of the 80s when my mum and brother were here) and the apple pie we had as a dessert last night was the best of all so far and was even more delicious than the fried mars bar thingy the night before. Calorie restriction is not really "the thing" here, and yet, the weight drops off plus we will likely get into the loss of appetite altitude phase soon.
Today a fairly easy day, up to Chhukhung Ri (which is at same altitude as ebc) and then down again to chill. It's beautifully bright and sunny but temperatures at night are now well below freezing outside (it was 0*c in our room this morning).
We will be taking down jackets and are also wearing fetching long johns so that we are more or less comfortable up therebfor the hour henry would like us to be there. We have also packed some delicious choc chip cookies. Glamping. Yes yes...
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