Today was a good day for e.a.t.i.n.g. So it's a good thing we did quite a bit of that. Because it was also a thorough walking day. Our longest so far at 6 hours.
But first a word or two (or 200 but who's splitting hairs here) on Namche: we had splurged on a luxury room which meant en suite bathroom ("completely unnecessary" said she initially but man was it nice to have) ....and they did not lie, there was 24 hrs hot (piping hot!) water and our very own flushing loo. And all that at $20 PLUS (Jan's non plus ultra) two (!!) power supply thingies in the room so limitless charging of various devices. Plus the room genuinely was charming. Aman it was not but beats your average holiday inn any day (the view alone made sure about that!).
Namche itself is also easy to like especially if you're into the outdoors as it is one big adventure shop with all the brands for sale. It now also boasts an Irish pub, the liquid bar (free wifi from 5pm) and as Jan already mentioned, some really decent coffee. Most people stay here 2 nights "to acclimatise" but frankly, I reckon with that much entertainment and relative luxury going for it (and everybody knowing it's going to get tougher from here) it is indeed a last little bit of revelling in comfort before it's off ...and mostly up.
Up up up beyond Namche is the relatively famous Everest View Hotel - accessible by aeroplane (plus they have oxygen for those that need some given it sits at 3900m) or helicopter....or foot of course but the foot folk aren't really the target customer. Because, you see, if you are a trekker or climber or (dreaded) "traveller" you are very unlikely to shell out some $180++per night. However, they do allow us foot folk onto the terrace (it is frowned upon not to order something though) which has spectacular views of Ama Dablam and yes, as the name suggests, the Big E.
After our obligatory pot of tea and a million photos later, we went a bit down (one is always a bit wistful on days like these when going down because you k n o w that any down has to go up up and further up) into Kumjung where Sir Edmund Hillary founded a school as well as hospital ...he is still very revered here and the number of silk "shawls" around his statue attest to that.
From Kumjung the wistfulness came right back as we went way down for about an hour and half to Phunki Thenga (yes, for real) for a big hearty lunch by the river (aargh.... Al the way down to the river) only to go up up up again after lunch to Tengboche where there is a world famous (though admittedly slightly disappointing) Buddhist monastery. It burnt down in the eighties as the newly installed electrics sparks and resulting smoke in the year of the rat were seen as a sign for more chanting as opposed to the run for the water bucket. It was closed initially but they opened it for us to take a look but unfortunately no chanting of ceremony to be entranced by though it was notable that one of the monks who we chatted to briefly was wearing an Arcetrix fleece......in the exactly appropriate purple.
As it was getting cold and misty - fast - and Tengboche is not the most charming of places we decided to continue on (no cake break!) to Pangboche, where we were to meet Henry and settle in for two days. We did have a giggle on passing "Rivendell Lodge"......
Whilst today was long and lots of up and downhill, we are feeling remarkably good (no headache in sight) and pretty strong. All those marathons, duathlons, triathlons, ultras earlier this year and last but not least sleeping in that oxygen deprivation tent in the run up to this trip must have been good for something: we soldiered steadily past quite a few groups and preferred moving on rather than taking breaks and getting cold. Henry mentioned that even our guide Hermanta said something about "fast" and "walking" ... Which hopefully doesn't really mean "those crazy Germans"!
Educational snippets on Tengboche, Hillary's work here and other to follow but since the luxury was left behind in Namche I need to get these hands into some gloves and sleeping bag ...and read my thrilling page turner (thanks for that, Jane!).
Tomorrow: acclimatisation hike up to Ama Dablam base camp. Yesssss!
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